Rogue One Rebel Helmet - Fabric Cover Test

I have just started playing around with a pattern for the cover, Thanks  RPF Sheeple for those measurements.
Front view was pretty handy gave me a good indication of width and you can see its got the seam and a stitch down also. I'm guessing the baffles or what ever they are called start just before the armor. After having a look at the endor rebel helmet builds Rebel Legion. I figured I could have a play to see how they look.

There's going to be a long strip for the center every baffle is double the top width 15mm (30mm total). other than that getting the cover to sit nice means getting the side panels cut at the right angle.

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Rogue One Rebel Helmet - Torch Prep, painting, and weathering.

A few photos of the process to get the torch as "prop" realistic as possible.

sanded all the high points off the plastic and primed it. Added some test pot paint to the cracks to fill up some of the harder to get print lines.

 After another round primer and sanding with 250-400 grit looking much better.

Once I was happy that it was super smooth I painted it matt black, this gives a good base for the boltgun metal I used.

After that I used a bit of mayonaise and a size 1 brush to brush on some streaks so they looked like scratches, normally you would use some masking fluid but applying masking fluid with out letting the previous layer of paint dry off hard (over night)  usually results in peeling off the layer under with the fluid. So mayo creates an oil barrier between the paint layers and you can wipe it off with a damp cloth once the top coat is dry in my case 5 mins.

Finished article with mayo wiped off showing the chips and scratches.

Weathering I used some stone wash, sepia wash and some brown ink (watered down), I also used a brush and carfully edge highlighted some of the scratches with some crome paint to make it look like fresh knocks.

 
After looking at the poster I decided that it needed a bit more roughing up so I gave the torch a controlled dry brush. Only the smallest amount of paint on the width of the brush and then wipe most of it off on a cloth or the carboard you are painting on, then lightly pull the brush over the high points. This enable the paint to catch on the high points but not painting parts that would not wear out or scratch up so fast.

 Test look beside the box thats just come off the printer and the helmet.
 

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Rogue One Rebel Helmet - 3d Printed Torch

Here are some pics of the final printed model, there are a few changed elements from the previous models.

Next job is to sand it smooth, prime, and paint up like the actual prop.

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Rogue One Rebel Helmet - Torch

Renders of the torch from the side of the Helmet.

First a reference pic

Rogue One Poster

Location of torch - you can see the torch above the strap and below the box in the poster.

Below are 2 slight variations of the design.

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Rogue One Rebel Helmet - how to tell the correct M1 Version.

The correct version of the M1 helmet is the Vietnam era style, lower profile helmet.

If you want to know more check out the RPF research and build log for the Rogue One Rebel Helmet build. Its a great group build that I'm proud to be part of.

If your looking for the Correct version here are the things to look for;

Curve of the Helmet, the Grey one on the left is the 1970's M1, right is the WW2 version.

 rpf member BobZurukle

The seam around the bottom of the helmet is joined at the back, If you find one with the seam at the front its a WW2 version.

Your straps may vary and could have been repaired with a plastic rim for the strapping to fit to the inner helmet, its your choice to decide how authentic you want your build to be. here is an original inner with original strapping.

 Close up of the strap and screen shot of the trailer helmet.

screen capture Rogue One trailer.

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Rouge One REBEL Helmet

Its been a while, and I have been painting off and on while building our house, but the lastest little piece of excitiment is getting together with like minded people at the rpf forum.

So here are some reference pics of the helmet that we are going to make. The base of the helmet is a M1 Vietnam US helmet with a custom fabric cover and extra armor with a few greeblies, and rubber band looking straps.

 

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Socket Base Part 1

Making a Socket base

Getting hold of a  plinth is as easy as going to a timber yard and buying a length of 35x35 or what ever size you need and cutting it to length (you can even get them to do it for you). You can add a beading to it also if you are keen. Or you can purchase one from a retailer. Sockelmacher comes to mind.

On this base I have used cork. Your local hardware store should sell cork tiles, this is what I have used. A lot of people use corks as slabs of earth to get a base, this has its uses. To get a better looking base, and to avoid the "oh I can see that's cork" break your cork up into pieces and glue it on making it more irregular. Adding a few items of interest always helps if you are planning a larger base, here I used 2 skulls.

I have used a bit of blue tack and set the removable base in the centre of the plinth and used the cork to surround it and build an enviroment. Think of the cork as volume and the "rocks" to form the general shape of the scene.


Next also from the hardware store is gap filler was just under $4. Its a perfect option for those who don't feel the need or have the funds to purchase products that are 4x times price. An old brush that is at the end of its days is great with a bit of water to sculpt the filler too.

Squirt it on to the base and a little to the side use your modelling tools and brush to move it around and squash it in to any gaps that don't look right. My thoughts are to build some more volume and give a base to the area I will cover with sand and baking soda. I want to use baking soda as the grain is much smaller and I want to create a dusty looking enviroment.

while the filler was drying I selected a few pieces of root that I had collected in my travels stuck them in so the filler would harden around them. Using a smaller piece of root I glued one to the underside of the small cliff so the dead tree above had some roots too.

The next step I added baking soda to the filler areas and a few smaller areas. I brushed the residue off the base as I'm looking for a dusty desert look not soft snow.

Primed Base

I have primed the base using black and grey primer, black from below and grey from above, there is a slight khaki colour to the grey as I added it to the grey primer just as an experiment. Here you can start to tell that this looks like an realistic enviroment, it is harder to make out a slab of cork the top ground undulates more than if it was a flat piece of cork and its smooth enough to look like a dusty desert.

 Front

 Side Right

 Back

side Left

I hope you have enjoyed this little voyage into base building and if you have any questions don't hesitate. Painting and pigments are the next step and 3 special additions for interest.